The Atlantic Wall
A machine gun was pointing in our direction. Partially hidden by the sand dunes, but there was no mistake, it was definitely a gun. Another couple of metres along the highway that leads out of Ostende, a cannon protrudes from a concrete bunker.
This is the Atlantic Wall (or Atlantikwall as it was known by the Germans) and we are driving right alongside it.
“Build it” said Hitler
As World War II raged, Adolf Hitler believed that the Allies would try an attack from the ocean, across the English Channel. And so, in his continuing quest for world domination, he ordered the construction of a series of structures and fortifications along the European coastline.
His plan was to fortify the entire Atlantic coastline from Norway to the Pyrenees, on the border of France and Spain. That’s a seriously large wall! This wall comprised of guns, cannons, forts, trenches, observation bunkers and traps, all with the strategic goal of keeping the Allies out.
Walking the wall
As I walk through the sand dunes and into the trenches, I can’t help but think of all the people who were forced to build such a fortification. Or those that would spend their days underground in concrete observation bunkers, peering out towards the sea through tiny viewing windows. Or those soldiers who called through to the gunners when an Allied plane was spotted coming towards the mainland.
If I close my eyes, I can hear the sound of the machine guns with their bullets hailing down onto the Germans. And in return, the Germans loading up their own artillery and returning fire.
And if that doesn’t stir up your imagination, then the reproductions of the lives of the soldiers that lived and worked here, certainly will. From the bunks to the medical rooms, to the storerooms, where cases of bullets were kept, and gas masks stored, ever at the ready. To the communications rooms, the officers’ mess, and all of the memorabilia on display.
Much of the entire wall has been demolished now. The French, many of whom were drafted into working on this wall, were quick to eradicate most of it, following the end of the war. It was too painful to have such reminders around. Thankfully, however, it was realised that this wall was an important part of history that needed to be preserved. The part of the Atlantic Wall near Ostende now stands as an important, but nonetheless a stark reminder of World War I and II.
So join me as I take you on a photo tour of two world wars. It’s certainly not exhaustive as there are so many displays and artifacts that I simply can’t put them all in here. Hopefully, this will give you a good snapshot of what a fantastic place this is to come to and learn more about the impact of the world wars on this area and its people.
The Aachen Battery
A battery, in military terms, is an area where forts, guns, rockets, other artillery and their crews are grouped in order to facilitate better control.
The Aachen Battery is the only remaining coastal World War I battery which has been preserved well enough to offer a true insight into the events of the world wars.
The steel posts on the artillery platform below were used to keep the four-tonne guns in place. The ammunition was stored below and hoisted up via cables to the guns.
Messages were passed from the operator of the long rangefinder to those below in the observation bunker via a tube. Silhouette drawings in the bunker helped the Germans to identify their enemies aircraft.
Not satisfied with all the artillery they had, the Germans also made all manner of obstacles to embed in the sand or the ocean. Wooden poles placed on an angle with land mines attached were set up to impact those arriving by water. The gates were anti-tank mechanisms. Dragon’s teeth, were concrete pyramids made to smash apart anything that hit them. And logs with saw tooth metal teeth on the top were placed underwater to inflict maximum damage to watercraft.
These anti aircraft guns were fast but didn’t have the capability to shoot long distances. As a result, the bombers just flew higher to keep out of range. They were used when Allied bombers attacked the nearby airport or when they were heading home after a raid on German soil.
German soldiers used the planning room for planning the design and construction of bunkers, forts and other buildings.
With over 60 different types of bunkers, observation posts, artillery, displays, views, and 2km of open or underground trenches, corridors and paths, this is one of the most interesting, interactive and well preserved historical destinations I’ve ever seen.
Atlantic Wall essentials
- Raversyde can only be accessed from the non ocean side.
- Open: School holidays, weekends and public holiday 10.30am – 6pm.
- Open: Weekdays 10.30am – 5pm.
- Tickets €8 / reduced price €6. Combined tickets to see the Atlantic Wall and Anno (a 15th century fishing village) is €10 / reduced €8.
- Allow at least two hours for the Atlantic Wall.
- The Atlantic Wall is contained within a nature reserve and can only be visited on foot. As it is hilly, in sand dunes, steps, trenches etc, it is not wheelchair friendly and could be difficult for those with mobility issues.
- Take a bottle of water with you as there is nothing available once you are in the dunes. There are also no toilets out there, so be sure to visit the ones at the entrance.
- An excellent audio tour is provided as part of the entrance ticket.
- Free and plentiful carparking is available on site.
- Musuem and restaurant also on site.
- Excellent displays and commentary.
Reading this hits home how lucky we are and how horrendous it must have been for those soldiers.
Certainly does Alayne.
Your pictures help tell your story so well! As a young kid, I loved exploring old concrete bunkers Hitler built on the Norwegian coast…they are now mostly filled with broken beer bottles.
That would have been incredible David. I guess that’s the problem with some of the historical stuff we see today. It wasn’t always thought to be important or having value. Such a shame, but how amazing that you got to see it.
It never ceases to amaze me, no matter how much more we learn of Hitler, his regime and WWII, just how encompassing his plans were and how early he started his campaign planning. Unfortunately, so few knew of the true enormity of it all or what his true vision really was.
Your great post covers an area we have not visited, so thank you.
I know Annette. Each time I visit somewhere that has a connection to WWII I think the same thing. So much of his planning happened pre 1936 and of course 1936 was his big year for spreading all his propaganda via the Munich Olympics. We have sop much to be thankful for, that he was able to be stopped. I just wish the world would continue to learn from all of this. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to comment. Greatly appreciated.
Oh my god, the lengths the Nazi did just to further their evil ends, so scary. It’s a good thing that they are able to preserve those relics though, it really makes for an interesting trip down the history.
Yes I agree Marge. It was absolutely despicable what the Germans did to so many, but by being able to see these relics of the war, we can continue to learn, and hopefully not repeat it all again.
Such an interesting post! I was born and raised in Canada to German parents. Both of my grandfathers were active in the war (one as a tank driver-he was a civic engineer- and the other a communications officer). Now living in Germany for the past few years, it seems so unbelievable the horror that the war inflicted on everyone, just 70 years ago. It is frightening how one person can gain so much power and lead others to such incomprehensible acts…but it continues to happen around the world. These memorials are so important, so that maybe we (the big collective, global ‘we’) will learn that war brings nothing good. Thanks for this post!
I couldn’t agree more Nina. I think the “age” of the war is something that always amazes us. In real terms, it really wasn’t that long ago at all. And I also wish and hope that everyone would learn from these wars and realise that no one wins. Thank you so much for your comments and for stopping by my blog.
Oh man, how creepy! Really interesting looking place, I’ll be checking that out when I’m in the area!
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Great post which tells some fascinating history of the lengths Hitler would go to. Those bunkers look really well preserved still to this day, I would love to have a tour around them.
If you ever get the chance Paul you definitely should. It’s a self guided tour, but a really great one.
Very interesting, if I’m in this part of the world I will definitely visit. Thanks for sharing!!
That’s some serious fortification, with an air of creepiness about it. The beautiful landscape does temper it a bit, but I can certainly see why most of this has been eradicated. The war is still very fresh for many. Thanks for sharing this cool bit of history – living in America, we have little to remind of us of the Word Wars.