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I love hidden restaurants. I’ve been to many popular ones too, usually because their reputation for amazing food, view or service have made the experience worthwhile. But these days, I find that I am seeking out the more quirky eating establishments. The ones that are usually only accessible to “those in the know”. Like the place in Buenos Aires that is run by two sisters, where your seat at the table is only possible if you have been personally referred by a previous dinner guest.
Tucked away in a Boucherie (butcher) in the Marché d’Aligre, a bustling food market, is where you will find the hidden restaurant, Les Provinces. The restaurant, open for several years, started its life as an experiment by the owner. During a food festival he used the shop as a means of showcasing his fresh meat and was blown away by the success. So much so, that he decided to open up the inside of his shop for dining.
We arrived in the thick of the markets. With the square and side streets full of fruit and vegetable vendors, calling out to customers and one another, it was somewhat like organised chaos. Lettuce leaves, flung off their body by exuberant sellers, lined the path that I walked. It was nearly one o’clock and already the vans were starting to weave in and out as they established their spots to enable their goods to be packed up. I know I’m on my way to lunch, but perhaps I could just linger a little longer in amongst all of this wonderful fresh produce?
We are still searching for Les Provinces. We know it’s here somewhere, but the markets make it a little tricky to always get a clear view of the shops that line the paths behind them.
Before long, we find what we are looking for. If not for the name boldly emblazoned on the shop front, it could still be possible to miss.
Tucked in amongst the markets is Les Provinces
From the outside it clearly looks like a working Boucherie. Do you think the pig’s heads are a giveaway?
Pigs heads
As we take a peek through the window we can see diners. It’s not a trick. We haven’t been lead down the garden path.
Time to go inside
Entry to the restaurant is through the front door of the Boucherie, glass cabinets on the left showing off the most amazing cuts of beef, pork and other meats. It looks delicious already. And have I mentioned the smell ? This is a carnivores delight. Heady smells of caramelised meats drift through the air. I hope we aren’t too late and we can find a table.
Separating the Boucherie from the dining area is a high bench, already lined with lunchtime diners tucking into their food.
In the centre are some standard square tables and bench seats line the far wall. It’s about 1pm now and the restaurant shuts at 1.30pm on a weekday. We are in luck, and are shown to a table in the centre by a friendly host.
Les Provinces claim to fame isn’t just that it’s hidden. The wonderfully innovative part of this restaurant is that the meat is chosen fresh out of the cabinet and cooked for you.
The menu is kept simple, with only a few items each day on offer, but given its location, all of it revolving around the meat that is sold on site.
The daily menu board
When I have a question about the type of meat on the menu, I am quickly invited by the host to go up to the counter and talk to the men at the counter. With that visual image of the meat in my mind, my selection off the blackboard is made much easier.
I can’t wait to eat. This place is abuzz and my eyes are flickering everywhere trying to take it all in. The counter has a steady stream of people coming in to buy their meat, and the six or so people behind the counter are engaging in vibrant conversation as they take aged beef off the wall, or sausages from the display cabinet. I can’t help but stare at them and smile at what a community the French make of shopping.
The display cabinets full of meat
The food arrives for the men at the high bench and now my mouth really starts to water. Why didn’t I order that burger. It looks delicious. And, judging my the way in which they are being devoured, I would say the recipients think so too.
If I can’t have my food just yet, then the wine will have to do. A carafe filled with a light red wine, similar to a pinot noir, will be a fantastic match for our red meat.
Enjoying my glass of wine in such wonderful surroundings
As though they are teasing us on purpose, several more plates of food are swept past our noses, enroute to the young men sitting in the corner window. The rather large plate of boeuf tartare doesn’t overly appeal, but I understand how much the French love this dish. I imagine it to be of the highest quality in this restaurant.
The chef is working flat out in a very small kitchen environment at the back of the store. In the early days, the owner used to cook for his guests, but demand quickly overrode his ability to be chef and owner, so now a dedicated chef runs the kitchen.
Inside the restaurant
Despite my wishing that the food would arrive pronto, it really didn’t take very long at all. My husband’s Filet de Boeuf looked and smelled amazing. Cooked in the traditional French way, without having to cover up the meal with anything fancy or unnecessary. A simple salad, some excellent roast potatoes and a bearnaise sauce. The meat, according to he who ordered it, was cooked very well and tasted wonderful.
Filet de Boeuf
Mine arrives and it looks just as amazing. I love ordering lamb in France, partly because it tastes awesome but partly because I love saying the word D’Agneau. It’s such a posh word for lamb !!
Cote D’Agneau
One of the best lunches we’ve had this trip
Les Provinces is a small restaurant catering for around 20 people. Reservations cannot be made so it is first in, first served. Whilst the Boucherie itself trades for longer hours, the restaurant itself is only open for a limited time each day.
It’s not the most inexpensive restaurant around, but it’s certainly not high end either. We paid €56 for our two main meals, tasty rolls and the wine. What you will get here, is exceptional quality, cooked beautifully, in a restaurant offering something different to the norm. We had great service the day we were there, and the ambiance inside the restaurant was awesome. I would happily return to this place.
Les Provinces
20 Rue d’Aligre 75012 Paris
- Restaurant is open everyday for lunch 12pm – 2pm.
- Open Thursday and Friday for dinner 7pm-9.30pm.
- No reservations for lunch.
- Closest metro – Ledru-Rollin
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A former business executive, Kerri left the corporate world to pursue a different lifestyle, establishing the successful travel website, Beer and Croissants. Kerri and her husband Stirling now regularly travel the world, where eating great food, drinking quality beer and wine, and cooking international foods are integral to their adventures. You also won’t find them too far away from an epic road trip either, with motorhomes their speciality. Kerri and Stirling are firm believers that anyone can travel, adapting any situation to suit their own preferences. To help provide inspiration for future travellers, Kerri creates comprehensive guides and articles that are written in a down to earth, authentic manner.
I was very envious of your meals. They looked amazing.
That they were! Very fresh.
56 euros sounds entirely reasonable, especially for what you’re getting there. Everything looks delicious!
I love finding these hidden spots–and also enjoying them at lunch instead of dinner–a wonderful leisurely meal at a good value!
It’s almost as thought we’ve uncovered something we shouldn’t !!
Were you able to order in English or did they ask you to order in French? I’ve had that experience during my travels in Paris but I’m a French speaker so it’s less of an issue. I’ve always wondered how it is folks who may not understand a word they say. 🙂
Hi Cathy, as is the case in much of Paris there is a lot of English spoken. But to be honest, I will always ask for French menu’s and always try to speak in my broken French as I know they appreciate it so much more. It’s also how I learn. I have been in some countries though, like Prague and Budapest where I have struggled a little more.
Love it! This place looks absolutely amazing- added to the bucket list 🙂
Good one, thanks Kimmie.
Your meals looked delicious – and you both looked happy at the prospect of being able to eat them! Really enjoyed the way you wrote this post – thanks for sharing a hidden foodie spot in the heart of Paris with us!
Thanks Mel, truly appreciate your comments. It was fabulous and I love finding places like this.
I love experiences like this. I probably won’t make it to Paris this summer, but next time I will have to check this restaurant out!
Sounds like a plan Stephanie.
Hidden restaurants are the best!!! Great find :).
I’m reading this before eating breakfast…and oh my word does that it look good! 🙂 Great post, thank you for sharing!
Thanks Natasha! It would definitely make me hungry too:)
Looks delicious. I was in París 2 weeks ago, wish I’ve read this earlier haha
What a shame Ivana.
Looks amazing! I would definitely love to visit someday!
You got me curious about the place in Argentina that you need a referral to try it!
Brenda, I shall have to put my thinking cap o for the name. It escapes me at the moment, which is why I didn’t include it.
I’ve been in Paris few weeks back and someone else mentioned this restaurant too! Now I feel so bad I haven’t checked it…
There’s always next time perhaps Daniela.
This is what I love about travel, finding these amazing hidden gems that probably only the locals know about. The food looked fabulous and I’ll bet the wine even better! 🙂
Yes on all fronts Nancy.
This post made me hungry!!:)
That’s definitely my kind of restaurant – the hidden ones and serves the dishes with no fancy artwork. Love it!
I’m so hungry now! great place! #weekend wanderlust
This looks so delicious! I’m always up for some very carnivorous delights, and that Filet de Boeuf is making me so hungry right now 😉
Wow, I didn’t know about the hidden restaurants. Though the pig head woud have put me off. It’s cool what you can discover in Paris. Totally need to go back.
I would love to experience a meal in this lovely hidden restaurant, thank you for allowing us to have a sneak peak with you.
My pleasure Lyn.
I love secret restaurants! They often have such great stories and such delicious looking food – not entirely sure on the pigs heads though!
Luckily the pigs heads aren’t on the menu. I suspect it could be a trick to keep the restaurant “secret”
This post is making me hungry. I love to dig out hidden gems in the busy city.
So many great meals to be had in the 11th and 12th districts. Ah Paris, tu me manques…
Great looking little hidden restaurant. I’m more of a lunch fan that a dinner fan, so would suit me.
I like the fact they close at 2pm. Like they decide the hours based on when they want to work not when people would like to eat (I’ve been in latin America for a long while, so eating before 2 sounds a bit ridiculous to me).
It’s always fun to try a new “hidden” place especially when it turns out good! Those meals look and sound amazing. I would have run the other way when I saw the pig head, but I would have missed out. Keep on finding these gems so all of us don’t have to do the research 🙂
Thanks Angela, I really appreciate your comments. I will definitely keep looking out for them 🙂
Wow! Lovely and yummy find. Food is a great factor when I travel and this kind of restaurant just matches with my taste. have to check this out.
I’m drooling just looking at these. I do love a good cut of meat. So good!