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BEER AND CROISSANTS

Home > Destinations > Exploring the beautiful Grand Boulevards of Paris

Exploring the beautiful Grand Boulevards of Paris

Published March 21, 2016 Updated February 15, 2019 - This post may contain affiliate links. Read the disclosure.

CONTENTS

  • The Grand Boulevards
      • Here’s a few of the key places to see and visit along the Grand Boulevards.
    • Galleries Lafayette
    • Beautiful doors and archways
    • Les Passage Couverts
    • Les Grand Rex
    • Porte St-Denis

The Grand Boulevards

The Grand Boulevards is a term given to an area of inner city Paris that underwent a huge public works program.  It was initiated by one of Napolean III’s men, Monsieur Haussmann, during the mid 1800s.  At the time, Paris was known to have overcrowded neighbourhoods, disorganised and narrow streets, and incredibly poor infrastructure (eg sewerage).

Haussmann had grand plans for this area, which included demolition of these neighbourhoods, widening of streets and improvement of services.  Whilst Haussmann didn’t get to see his plan through, it was continued by others and the distinctive layout of inner-city Paris is a result of his work.  This city layout is immediately obvious from higher vantage points such as the Eiffel Tower or the Arc de Triomphe.

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I don’t know about you, but when I think of Paris, one of the instant pictures I get in my mind is of the Parisian streetscape.  You know the one that has all of those beautiful apartment buildings, with the second story balconies, and the slate coloured, slanted roof, with dormer windows.

Enjoying walking around Paris. Check out this St Germain walking tour

Haussmannian building in Paris

Haussmannian building

The building walls are usually a beige, or sandstone colour.  If I look deeper into my mind, I see chimneys all along the rooftops, and there is, for some reason, always a lazy French chat (cat) sunning itself on a window ledge.  If I push my mind further, I also can see the secret interior courtyards that only those privileged to enter through the front doors can see.

Haussmannian building in Paris France

The French Chat (cat) sunning itself

These buildings are Haussmannian.  It seems Haussmann had a very strong and enduring influence on the architecture of Paris.  In thinking through his overall town plan, Haussman warmed to the simplicity and consistency of these structures, meaning today that the inner city of Paris is also free of ugly high rises.  He introduced standards for maximum height, roof pitch, and the width of the streets to ensure that the houses were not re-creating the previously crowded neighbourhoods.

Haussmannian buildings of Paris

More of the easily recognised Haussmannian buildings

All Haussmannian buildings are made from cut stone.  They have a ground floor and a basement.  A specific identifying feature of these buildings is a second floor balcony, always with an elaborate wrought iron balustrade, and feature decorative edges to the external windows.  The fifth floor (the top level) also has a balcony, although not as fancy as that of the second.  In the roof, the dormer windows allow light and air into the attic.

The Grand Boulevards are anchored at one end by Opéra Garnier and run for quite some distance down to Strasbourg-St-Denis.  They are easily walked, and the large number of cafes and restaurants along the way will make the walk even more enjoyable.  If the walking gets to much, there are a number of Metro stations dotted along the way.

Here’s a few of the key places to see and visit along the Grand Boulevards.

The Boulevards are a shopper’s paradise with the Grand Magasins (department stores)  based here. Printemps and my favourite, Galleries Lafayette draw large crowds every day.

The beautiful Printemps building on the Grand Boulevards

The beautiful Printemps building on the Grand Boulevards

Galleries Lafayette

If you haven’t been to Galleries Lafayette, it’s a must see.  As a department store, it offers great shopping, but for me, it’s the stunning building that draws me in.  Outside it’s gorgeous, but inside, it’s another world.  Oh, and the food gallery has enough to keep me interested all day.

Galleries Lafayette Grand Boulevards Paris

The gorgeous domed roof of Galleries Lafayette

paris-france-grand-boulevards-galleries-lafayette-dome-roof

Galleries Lafayette Paris

The French do pastry so well

Beautiful doors and archways

All along the Boulevards are incredible feature doors.  They are huge, grand entrances to the courtyards behind, and once again feature elaborate stone work around the doors and arches.  Here are just a few of my favourites.

 

Grand Boulevards of Paris

So many amazing doors along the Grand Boulevards

Granda Boulevards of Paris

Grand Boulevards of Paris

One of my favourite doors

 

Grand Boulevards Paris

Beautiful feature stone around the doors

Les Passage Couverts

Another fascinating find along the Boulevards are the Les Passage Couverts. Exposed to the Grand Boulevards only by an entrance way, these undercover passages are quite often missed.  But if you can find them, the Passages Jouffrey, Verdeau and Panoramas, they offer a tremendous insight into the world of Parisian shopping from an era long gone.

These passages, often with intricate glass rooftops overhead to let the light in, that you can lose yourself in second hand bookstores, search for a collectible stamp or coin, and drink tea from a teacup in an old tearoom.

Inside the Panoramas Passage off the Grand Boulevards

Inside the Panoramas Passage off the Grand Boulevards

Les Grand Rex

Continuing the theme of beautiful architecture is the building that houses Les Grand Rex.  Built in 1932, this art deco building is known as the wedding cake due to its distinctive layers.  Today, it is a cinema and the largest venue of its kind in Europe.

 

Grand Boulevards Paris Grand Rex

Les Grand Rex

Porte St-Denis

As you approach the suburb of Strasbourg St-Denis, the glamour of the Boulevards starts to subside.  In this area, it is strictly working class, with some of the “night time” workers (if you get my drift) seemingly still on their shift.  It’s a seedier part of town that’s for sure.  Here many of the once beautiful passageways are not used, save for a storage place to boxes of cheap merchandise that are being sold in the stores here.

But, you could also be forgiven for thinking that a replica of the Arc de Triomphe was sitting in front of you.

This is the Porte St-Denis, a monument erected on what was once a gate to the city of Paris.  Today, it’s also a bit of a haven for the homeless.

Further down the street is a similar monument, the Porte St-Martin.

 

paris-france-grand-boulevards-st-denis-porte

As you are walking the Grand Boulevards, be sure to pay close attention to the side streets as well.  You just never know what iconic feature you might see.  For us, it was the beautiful Sacre Couer that popped up as we crossed a side street.

Sacre Couer Paris

Look left and there’s the Sacre Couer

 

There is plenty to do in this area.  Shopping, admiring the beautiful (and quintessential) Parisian architecture, or just propping up a chair on the footpath and engaging in some people watching. Or, if night time is more your style, then this area comes alive with theatre, cinemas and clubs galore.  Whatever your choice, there’s plenty of offer here.  Or, if you want something a little more unusual, there’s also plenty to be found in Paris.

Exploring the Grand Boulevards of Paris
Previous Post: « Seek out this fabulous hidden restaurant in Paris : Les Provinces
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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Annemarie

    March 22 2016 at 8:16 am

    Totally agree with you, the Parisian apartment buildings are just dreamy. Love your architecture pics!! Where are you going next?

  2. Jessica Lippe

    March 22 2016 at 9:05 am

    I was in Paris in July, and even saw a few of these things in passing. Too bad I didn’t know about the significance of them until after the fact!

  3. Beer and Croissants

    March 22 2016 at 10:13 am

    Yes they are simply gorgeous. Hmmm…..maybe West coast Canada ?

  4. Beer and Croissants

    March 22 2016 at 10:13 am

    That’s ok Jessica, you do now 🙂

  5. Hung Thai

    March 22 2016 at 4:14 pm

    These buildings are so intricate yet so simple with beautiful lines and clean designs. I’m not a particular fan of architecture but I do appreciate when the whole city beats to the same rhythm. Very nice photography Kerri 🙂

  6. Beer and Croissants

    March 23 2016 at 8:34 am

    I think that is what I like too, the symmetry of it all. Thanks !

  7. JJ Berman (@theurbanenomad)

    March 24 2016 at 12:28 pm

    As someone who majored in urban planning, I loved the Haussman history. Also, amazing photos of examples of his work!

  8. Beer and Croissants

    March 24 2016 at 12:31 pm

    Thanks JJ. Some of my favourites buildings in the world.

  9. Cynthia

    March 24 2016 at 2:12 pm

    The Parisian architecture looks incredible. You certainly don’t see doors and archways like that in Canada! Thanks for the recommendations!

  10. Beer and Croissants

    March 24 2016 at 2:20 pm

    No, nor here in Australia either.

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Stirling and Kerri McConnel Beer and Croissants

Hi, we are Kerri and Stirling. We travel for amazing food, cold beer and great wine.  We love a touch of luxury but motorhome road trips are our great love.

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