San Marino – Why you must visit one of the smallest countries in the world

San Marino, one of the world’s oldest and smallest countries is a must-visit for any traveller to Europe and especially Italy, due to its proximity to this country. If you are a first-time traveller to San Marino, follow our guide for the best things to do in San Marino City and tips for how to plan your trip.

Read one of those “Top 10 places to see before you die” articles lately?  Or perhaps, “The top places to visit this year?”  How about “Top 10 Bucketlist countries in Europe!”  Chances are, if you have, you won’t have seen any mention of San Marino.  That’s what makes it even more special.

San Marino is one of those countries that keeps itself hidden. Those who have visited San Marino know all about why it is such a special country and yet it remains unknown to so many. Or, for those who have heard about it, many think San Marino is in Italy.

The history of San Marino

Have you heard of people mentioning San Marino, Italy?  If you have, it is not correct.  Despite its physical location, where it is wholly enclosed by Italy and close to many of the well-known Italian cities like Bologna and Florence, it actually isn’t in Italy at all?

Blink and you will miss San Marino.  That’s if you are one of the fortunate people who actually know where it is.  It’s a very common misconception that San Marino is part of Italy.  Google searches will attest to this, with common searches of “San Marino Italy” rising to the fore.  It’s understandable, given that it is completely landlocked by Italy. 

However, the Republic of San Marino is one of the world’s oldest republics and one of the smallest countries and as such totally independent of Italy and any other country for that matter.

It is also the only survivor from the Italian Renaissance days.  Back in the 14th and 15th centuries, Italy was divided up into areas known as city-states.  Regional areas surrounding important cities like Venice, Florence and Milan were ruled, usually by a strong and wealthy family. 

The Papal city-state, ruled by the Pope,  was also a key part of the Italian system.  With the later demise of the powerful city-states, curiously, San Marino maintained its independence.

Planning a trip to Bologna? Read our comprehensive guide on planning your itinerary.

San Marino fast facts

• San Marino is the fifth smallest country in the world.
• San Marino is one of only three countries in the world that is entirely surrounded by another country. San Marino is entirely surrounded by Italy.
• People who are from San Marino are called Sammarinese.
• Italian is the principal language spoken although Romagnol, an Emilio-Romagna dialect is also spoken.
• San Marino is not part of the European Union but uses the Euro as its currency.
• The Republic of San Marino is officially known as the Most Serene Republic of San Marino.  That’s quite a mouthful.
• Around 33,500 people call San Marino their home.
• The entire size of San Marino is 16 square kilometres.
• US President Abraham Lincoln held citizenship to San Marino.
• San Marino managed to remain neutral during both world wars, even with Italy heavily involved.

San Marino FAQs

Where is San Marino?

The Republic of San Marino is aesthetically beautiful, to match its interesting history. San Marino is located close to the Adriatic Sea which runs along the east coast of Italy. It is surrounded by the Emilia-Romagna and Marche regions of Italy and bordered to the west by the Apennine Ranges.

The capital of the republic, also called San Marino, was built as a fortress on top of Mount Titano, some 650 metres above sea level.   It’s a place of stone fairytale castles and buildings.  While it is the city of San Marino that most people go to visit, there are many villages at the base of the mountain.

It’s a very special place at the top of Mount Titano. Here you can sit and sip a cold glass of wine on the edge of the mountain, as you take in the view below.   On a very clear day, sweeping views across the Adriatic Sea can be seen and the magnificent Apennines can be seen in the distance.

As a mostly pedestrianised city, your trusty feet are the best option for exploring.   Take your time, stopping along the way to take in everything this city has to offer.  It’s impossible to get lost!

Pro travel tip: Note that many of the cobblestone streets are quite steep, and wearing good walking shoes is a must.  I wore heels out to dinner one night and had to almost tippy-toe on the stones.  Luckily,  I didn’t have to walk too far.

San Marino’s dependence on tourism

Despite relatively low tourist numbers, there is still a juxtaposition between this ancient city and its attempt to eke as much money as they can from those who visit.  Whilst the streets lined with shops add to the overall ambience and beauty, I would much prefer to see the majority of them filled with the unique local crafts that can be found in some of the shops. 

Once a tax haven and duty-free shopping city, the remnants of this over-commercialisation can still be seen in the bountiful handbag shops and other touristy items.

I didn’t allow this to cloud my view of the city though, as it’s easy to just ignore the shopping aspect and focus on the real beauty.  I didn’t come here to shop anyway, and I’m not tempted by shiny baubles and souvenir offerings.

What to do in San Marino

Three Towers

The Republic of San Marino and the city of San Marino is all about the fortress that sits aloft on its mighty mountain.  As you approach it from the ground, it elicits that first gasp.  It sneaks up on you ever so quietly that for a moment, you wonder if it’s someone else making that noise.  I look sideways at my husband and see his eyes wide with an appreciation of what we are about to see.

The fortress, built in the 1200s,  is comprised of three towers, all of which have been restored in some way over the years.  Two of them were actually used as prisons up until the 1960s.  The second tower sits on the highest part of Mt Titano, 756 metres above sea level.  The third sits on its own, isolated from the others.  Towers 1 and 2 can be accessed by the public.

Pro Tip:  Despite the website stating that the towers are open all day, they were closed when we visited, probably due to a midday siesta.  Before climbing up the hill, find out whether they are actually open!

The three towers, Guaita, Cesta and Montale are joined on top of the mountain by a path that winds its way along the top. Guaita was the first one built and in a significant act of defence, it was built with not one but two walls. Visitors to the Guaita Tower are able to walk one of them.

If you can, take the opportunity to walk the path between the towers and imagine yourself there centuries ago. The views on a good day from up here are epic. The Guaita and Cesta Towers only are open to the public,

At the Cesta Tower, you can climb up to the roof via a step-ladder. This one isn’t. for anyone with mobility issues though. If you are a fan of armour, be sure to visit the Armoury Museum found here.

Pro tip: Buy a combined ticket that includes the two towers. The Two Museum pass allows you to choose two from the following; Tower 1, Tower 2, St Francis Museum, State Museum, National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art and Public Palace (when open to visitors). A Combined Museum Pass gives entry to Towers 1 and 2, St Francis Museum, State Museum, National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art and Public Palace (when open to visitors).

Public Palace

The Public Palace is the main location of all things official here in San Marino, including parliament.  Located right on the town walls, it also contains guard towers, part of the city’s military defence in times gone by.  It is particularly spectacular at night time.

As the scene of much of San Marino’s political history, the building has several Coat-of-Arms that represent both the republic and municipalities.  It is of a Gothic style although much more sedate than many other Gothic buildings in Europe.  

The Guardia di Rocca perform in a changing of the guard ceremony at the Palace during summer.  They are performed every 30 minutes from 8.30 am until 6.30 pm seven days a week during this time.

Liberty Square

The Public Palace sits on one side of Liberty Square.  A fountain adorned with the Statue of Liberty sits in the centre of the square that overlooks the hills below.  Take a break in one of the many bars and cafes that line the square and watch the people go by.

Parva Domus Communis

This was the site of the former postal administration and also the town clock, although its internal workings of it were transferred to the Public Palace sometime later.  The building dates back to the 1300s.

Basilica di San Marino

This Catholic church is the main church of San Marino and stands apart from other buildings here due to its Roman architecture, notably the Corinthian columns at the front.  The coat of arms of the Republic of San Marino can be seen above the front door.

The Basilica is a relatively new construction by normal European standards, having been built in the 1820s.  It sits on the site of a church built in the 7th century.

Cava dei Balestrieri

Just over the side of one of the walls of the city, is a huge hole, created when the rock was excavated to reconstruct the Public Palace.  The San Marino Crossbowmen’s Federation was formed in 1956 and is made up of approximately 70 members. 

This is now used as a training area and exhibition space for the members.  As luck would have it, on the day we were here, we were given a great display of this sport.  Various contests and festivals featuring this ancient art take place throughout the year. The most important ones happen between Spring and Autumn.

The steps nearby were packed with people, sitting in the hot summer sun, watching the men ready their crossbows and shoot arrows into targets at the other end.  The speed at which they whizzed past my eyes as I was watching them from above told me I didn’t need to get too close!

San Marino is home to medieval festivals throughout the year. The Medieval Days Festival generally happens over the last weekend in July.

Take a ride on the tourist train

This is a little bit kitsch, but with San Marino being an incredibly hilly place to get around, the train is perfect for those who find the hills hard going, or just need a break. It is also wheelchair accessible.

Take the train from the Borgo Maggiore at the bottom of the hill up to the city of San Marino. The ride takes around 40 minutes and has an audio guide included, giving you the chance to take in the view while listening to the history of the city.

Where to eat and drink in San Marino

For a small city, there are plenty of opportunities to eat, stop for a refreshment or enjoy an aperitif as the sun goes down.  Given the physical location of San Marino, it’s easy to understand that the Italian influence is significant, and this extends to their food.  There’s plenty of pizza (good pizza) on offer, along with the usual Italian suspect of pasta.

There are many locations that offer a great view down into the valley or towards the Adriatic Sea.  Alternatively, there are cosy cafes and restaurants, hidden in stone buildings on the main streets.

Bar Piadineria la Capanna

With sweeping views and a location on the way to the First Tower, this bar is one that I would normally be enticed by the view but fear the service.  Unfortunately, bars in these areas have proven time and time again to be expensive (over the top really) and lacking in service.  This was not the case here, with prompt service, excellent prices, and their own specially brewed beer as well.  We just had a refreshing beer here but the pizza and pasta that we saw stream continuously from the kitchen looked very good.

Location: Location: Salita alla Rocca 47 San Marino Città, San Marino, San Marino 47890

Hotel Bellavista

Located on one of the highest points of the city of San Marino, the Hotel Bellavista restaurant offers traditional Italian fare, overlooking the Cava dei Balestrieri.  In warm weather, take a seat outside on the street, overlooking the training area for the crossbowmen.

Location: Contrada Del Pianello, 42/44 47890 San Marino 

Hotel Cesare

Hotel Cesare has a wonderful outdoor deck perfect for an early afternoon aperitif.  Whilst in Italy this time I took a fancy to their Aperol spritzers, a simple blend of Aperol, soda and prosecco.  Served in a huge wine glass over plenty of ice, it’s the perfect drink for a hot day

Location: Salita Alla Rocca, 7, 47890 Città di San Marino

Restaurant Righi – Osteria

For casual dining, the osteria on the ground level of Restaurant Righi, overlooking Liberty Square would be my pick.  With food overseen by Michelin-star chef Luigi Sartini, this is traditional family fare, served with the freshest of ingredients and the greatest of care.

Location: Piazza Libertà, 10 San Marino 

Restaurant Righi

For a significant step away from the common (but tasty) food of San Marino, look no further than Restaurant Righi, the fancy friend of its stablemate osteria.  Located above the osteria is the pride and joy of Chef Luigi Sartini. 

With one Michelin star under his belt, this intimate restaurant serves up innovative food made with only the freshest of ingredients. With degustations as a principal offering, the chef will prepare food unlikely to be seen elsewhere and perfectly matched with an impressive wine list.

Location: Piazza Libertà, 10 San Marino

Read about our own experience at Restaurant Righi San Marino

How to get to San Marino

The easiest way to get here is from within Italy itself. 

San Marino by train

Unlike much of Europe, it is not possible to catch a train to San Marino.  The train line was bombed during World War Two and has never been fully rebuilt.  Instead, you will need to travel to Rimini, about an hour to an hour and a half away, depending on the train. While int is recommended to catch the express train, it will depend entirely on your timing. Trenitalia is the main train service in Italy.

San Marino by car

The San Marino historic centre is a pedestrianised area, traffic controllers monitor the traffic.  Towards the top of the mountain, the road becomes one-way, with one road leading into the city and one out.  

From Bologna to San Marino: This trip covers 134 kilometres and just under two hours when traffic is normal.  Be mindful that many locals head to the seaside on Friday to spend the weekend so traffic will be much heavier during these times. The A14/E45 are the main routes out of Bologna.

From Rimini to San Marino:  Rimini is approximately 20 kilometres from San Marino, a trip that takes around 30 minutes.

Florence to San Marino:  Located approximately 238 kilometres from Florence, this drive will take just under three hours.

There are street parks along the road for cars and a car park right outside the city gates.  Parking is also available at Borgo Maggiore.  From here you can ride the funicular back up to the top.    Car parks in San Marino can be found here.

San Marino by bus

Buses leave from the main Rimini train station (20km away) and cost €5 per person each way or €9 return. The trip takes about 45 minutes.   The buses, operated by Bonelli Buses in conjunction with Fratelli Benedittini, run daily and tickets may be purchased on the bus.  The buses also have wifi.

For the current timetable of Bonelli buses, click here.

If you are catching the bus back into Rimini, the area at St Francis’ Gate where the traffic controllers are is where you need to go to.  The bus exchange lies directly beneath here and can be accessed via walking the winding road or by a lift just down a hill. If you are confused, just ask them as they are extremely helpful.

San Marino by air

There are no airports in San Marino.  The closest airports can be found in Rimini, Bologna and Ancona.  

Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport is the largest airport in Emilia Romagna and where the majority of visitors to Bologna (and San Marino) arrive.  Depending on your itinerary, it might be a good idea to hire a car from the airport.

Buses are the cheapest option for getting from Bologna to Rimini.   The Shuttle Italy Airport bus costs €22 one way and with several stops along the way takes approximately 90 minutes to arrive at Rimini Train Station.

Federico Fellini International Airport is in nearby Rimini.  Trains run from the airport to Rimini Central Station.  The number 9 bus also runs into the city.  Cars may also be hired from here.

Aeroporto delle Marche is a very small airport servicing only a handful of cities.  A train also runs from the airport into Rimini.

San Marino by funicular

A funicular is also a fun addition to San Marino, providing access up and down from the town of Borgo Maggiore.  Great views are a bonus.

Walking in San Marino

There is an ancient walkway called the  Costa dell’Arnella path that runs up the side of the mountain from Borgo Maggiore to San Marino.  If you fancy some incredible views and some exercise, this one is for you.  It starts in the centre of Borgo Maggiore and ends at the city gate entrance to the walled city of San Marino.

Getting around San Marino

This one is easy.  The small size of the historic city means that your two feet are the best option for getting around Marino.  Cars are prohibited inside the city walls.

When is the best time to visit San Marino?

Like so much of Italy that surrounds it, San Marino enjoys a wonderful Mediterranean climate.  In summer it is warm (and can get hot) but the ocean breezes coming up from the Adriatic usually keep the temperature at a reasonable level.  Summertime means heaps of tourists and even though this is one of the least visited countries in Europe, the number of people and its sheer size means it gets very crowded.

If you are coming via Rimini this is also important, particularly in the summertime. As a beach town, tourists flock to Rimini in the summer and so do locals on their weekends and on their summer holidays. Visitors almost always end up doing a day trip from Rimini to San Marino too, so the crowds can become quite unbearable.

Winter is much cooler given its location on the top of a mountain.  We visited at the end of October and it was a really beautiful time to visit.  The streets were also not busy at all.  It’s also a perfect time to go truffle hunting in the Romagna Hills nearby.

San Marino – a great day trip from Bologna

Is San Marino worth visiting? Yes is the answer.  There are plenty of things to do in San Marino, but there’s one thing in San Marino that you shouldn’t miss.  There’s no denying it can feel a bit touristy, but we really wanted to come here.  There are no official borders into San Marino, so a passport is not required. 

Trying to squeeze as much out of the visitor’s experience as possible, the San Marino tourism office provides a “tourist passport stamp” upon presentation of your passport at their office.  It will cost €5 for the pleasure, despite it having no official certification whatsoever.

However, I know I probably won’t come back here.  As beautiful as it is, this is a place for a day trip, two days at most.